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There are, however, two curiosities to distract the traveller.As the old coastal road descends into the valley a complex of strange, decorated, conical structures made of adobe comes into view (Km 63).

, built by a bohemian descendant of the last viceroy in the 1920s, is located on the cliff tops in Chancay town.

Once visited by the elite of Lima, it is now a decaying recreational centre with restaurants, bars, pools and a museum containing many Chancay culture artefacts. The Salvador family has accommodation and Carlos is a recommended guide for the ruins, though a guide is not strictly necessary.

Within just 5 km the landscape changes from barren desert to a green carpet, resonating with the sound of birdcalls.

In September and October the plants are in bloom and very beautiful.

on the north bank of the Río Huaura, has grown little over the last 200 years but remains hugely significant in the annals of Peruvian Independence.


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